Advanced Skin Analysis

For Skin Treatment Therapists
By Florence Barrett-Hill 

ISBN 978-0-476-00665-2


Copyright 2004 Virtual Beauty Corporation

Phase One: 
preparation &  technique

  • Conducting a detailed consultation 
  • Preparing the consultation area                                       
  • Viewing the skin  
  • Use of diagnostic equipment
  • The Three Diagnosis Characteristics of skin 
  • How to look at the skin
  • Basic majority protocols                         
  • Determining the basic majority skin type                                         
  • Basic Majority Skin Type; Lipid Dry Skin
  • Basic Majority Skin Type; Oily Skin
  • Basic Majority Skin Type; Permanent diffused redness
  • Review questions & references

Phase Two:  
Understanding skin physiology and applying it to the analysis procedure 

  • Dertermining the priority skin conditions
  • Linking skin Condition to Skin Structure & Function
  • Active & passive functions of the skin
  • Remember the cell
  • The cell membrane


Skin conditions related to TEXTURE and the systems involved

  • Factors determining the texture of the skin
  • The epidermis & the life cycle of the keratinocyte
  • The stratum granulosum
  • Formation of odland bodies
  • The dissolving of the desmosomes
  • Foration of amino acids
  • The stratum lucidum
  • The stratum corneum

Skin condition: Excess keratinisation

  • Closed & open comedones
  • Keratosis pilaris
  • Using the diagnostic indicator charts
  • Diagnostic indicator guide: Excess keratinisation

The dermis: formation of collagen, elastin & support systems

  • Intrinsic ageing
  • Extrinsic ageing
  • The dermis
  • The papillary layer
  • The reticular layer
  • The subcutaneous layer
  • Glycosaminoglycans
  • The fibroblast
  • Collagen synthesis & nutrition
  • Free radicals & UVR
  • The dermal - epdermal junction
  • Types of collagen
  • maintaining dermal health with enzymes
  • How UVR and MMP's cause skin ageing
  • Proteosomal decline; a cuase of skin ageing
Skin condition: Structual integrity & density

  • Diagnostic indicator guide: Structual integrity & density

Skin condition: Loss of resiliency adhesion

  • The elastic property of elastin
  • A cuase of loss of resiliency and adhesion
  • Reticular layer
  • Muscle atrophy and the facia
  • The superficial & deep facia
  • A cause of elastins loss of resiliency & adhesion
  • The diagnosis of loss of resiliency & adhesion/recoil
  • Diagnostic indicator guide: Loss of resiliency & adhesion
Skin condition: Glycation
  • Advanced glycosylation end products (AGEs)
  • Anti glycation agents
  • Carnosine;anti-glycation
  • Essential fatty acid deficiency, an aggravating factor
  • The diagnosis of glycation
  • Diagnostic indicator guide: Glycation

    Texture review questions & references

Skin conditions related to COLOUR and the systems involved

  • Systems directly involved with changes in skin colour
  • Melanogenenisis
  • Fitzpatrick skin chart
  • Redhead gene
  • Formation of pigment melanin
  • The enzyme tyrosinase
  • UVA, DNA damage
  • Chemical influences on melanogenisis

Skin condition: pigmentation

  • Chloasma and melasma
  • Solar lentigines and lentigo
  • Ephelides
  • Poikiloderma
  • Post-inflammatory pigmentation
  • Dermal pigmentation caused by trauma
  • Epidermal pigmentation caused by trauma
  • Diagnostic indicator guide: pigmentation

Vascular systems: the imune & defence systems

  • The circulatory system
  • Angiogenesis
  • Supply of skin nutrients
  • The immune system
  • The langerhan cell
  • Immune response
  • Importance of skin barrier defence
  • Wound healing process
  • Inflamatory response
  • The mighty macrophage
  • Fibroplasic phase
  • Regenerative phase
  • New collagen production
  • Repairing the epidermis

Skin condtion: vasular disorders

  • Aggravating factors of vascular skin conditions
  • Maintaining skin barrier defence systems
  • Recognising vasular conditions
  • Diagnostic indicator guide: Vasular disorders

Skin condition: Oxygenation loss

  • Free radicals
  • Oxygen transport
  • Skin nutrition & oxygen transport
  • Oxygen absorbtion
  • Oxygenation loss, a major cause of other skin conditions
  • Diagnostic indicator guide: Oxygenation loss

    Colour review questions & references

Skin conditions related to SECRETIONS and the systems involved

  • Skin conditions affected by the systems of secretions
  • The lymphatic stystem: the system of fluid balance & immune defence
  • Preserving fluid balance
  • Defence function
  • Nutrition  function
  • Metabolism of the lymphatic system
  • Review of the skin barrier defence systems
  • Secretions are causes, not conditions

Skin Condition: Impaired lymphatic system

  • Diagnostic indicator guide: Impaired lymphatic system

Skin condition:Impaired enzyme activity

  • Water phases of the epidermis & dermis
  • Enzyme activity
  • Glycosaminoglycans
  • The importance of amino acids
  • Amino acids as an active
  • How to diagnose impaired enzyme activity
  • A first or second priority skin condition
  • Diagnostic indicator guide: impaired enzyme activity

Skin condition:Essential fatty acid deficiency

  • The importance of the cell membrane
  • EFA's and slowing trans epidermal water loss (TEWL)
  • Table of essential fatty acids
  • The causes of essential fatty acid deficiency
  • Diagnosing essential fatty acid deficiency
  • Diagnostic indicator guide: essential fatty acid deficiency

Skin condition:Impaired acid mantle

  • Acid mantle micro flora
  • Normal skin flora
  • The advantages of an intact acid mantle
  • The importance of pH
  • Diagnosing an impaired acid mantle
  • Grading an impaired acid mantle
  • Functions of the acid mantle chart
  • Diagnostic indicator guide: Impaired acid mantle

Skin condition:Acne

  • The sebaceous gland
  • The sebocyte life cycle
  • Pilo sebaceous duct
  • Free ratty acids; a major aggvavating factor
  • Excess keratinisation; a major aggravating factor of acne
  • Substances to be avoided
  • Antibiotic resistant acne
  • Porphyrins
  • Hormonal mediated acne
  • Estrogen (Oestrogen)
  • Progesterone
  • Androgens
  • DHEA: (Dehydroepiandrosterone)
  • Androstenedione
  • Testoterone
  • Androgen inhibitors
  • Diagnosing different forms of acne
  • Diagnostic indicator guide: Acne & hormonal mediated acne

    Secretions review questions & references

Phase Three: 
Review, summary & records.
Using technology to assist you analysis

  • The consultation process review
  • Review: Diagnostic characteristics for Texture related skin conditions
  • Review: Diagnostic characteristics for Colour related skin conditions
  • Review: Diagnostic characteristics for Secretion related skin conditions
  • Summarising your findings
  • Review: determining the priority order of diagnosed skin conditions
  • Summarising secrets
  • Step by step priority order conditions
  • Selling your findings
  • Selling a course of corrective salon treatments
  • Concluding the sale
  • Follow-up & re-booking
  • Consultation & skin analysis forms
  • Sample consultation/analysis form
  • Maintaining your analysis and treatment progress records
  • Photographic records
  • Digital cameras
  • Taking photographs
  • Skin diagnostic equipment
  • Skin scanners & other black light equipment
  • Skin scanner usage: how to get the best from your scanner
  • Skin scanner colour interpretation guide
  • Confirming your diagnosis with electronic devices


Glossary of terms

Cause and effect quick reference guide

Visual evidence quick reference guide


222 pages

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2004 Virtual Beauty Corporation